VINGT Paris

Paris Neighborhoods

There was a time when Rive Droite and Rive Gauche signified more than just the geographical divide of Paris into the right and left bank, but the City of Lights has outgrown many of its stubborn stereotypes. The Right Bank (north of the Seine) was historically the realm of aristocratic mansions and luxury shopping; today its houses artist ateliers and vibrant multicultural communities.

Across the river, upscale fashion boutiques, avant-garde restaurants, and some of the most expensive real estate in Paris have transformed the Left Bank's clichéd image as a scruffy bohemian bastion of students and struggling writers. Today Paris is a city of neighborhoods, each with its own particular atmosphere and style.

When asked where you live in Paris, generally you would reply with an arrondissement number, rather than the actual name of the neighborhood. Essentially, the 20 arrondisements of Paris are the different districts of the city separated by numbers. The 1st arrondisement is located in the the center of the city and the district numbers spiral out in a clockwise pattern, stretching all the way to the north-east side of Paris. Each arrondisement has its own colorful flavor with unique cafes, quiet streets to stroll down, and parks to picnic in.

So if a friend asks you where you live in Paris (and let's just say you live in Le Quartier Latin), you would kindly reply, "I live in the 5th arrondisement... and it's fabulous."

Île de la Cité & Île St-Louis

1er & 4e Arrondissements. As the historic cradle of Paris -- first settled over 2,300 years ago by the Gallic Parisii tribe -- some of the city's oldest "must see" sights are found on the Île de la Cité, including Notre-Dame, the Conciergerie, and Sainte-Chapelle. The small island is also home to Paris's high courts (Palais de Justice), police headquarters, and the Hôtel Dieu hospital, contributing to the already significant bustle of tourists and traffic. It's possible to escape the noisy crowds in the winding medieval streets behind Notre-Dame or under the trees at place Dauphine, but for a decent selection of hotels and restaurants cross the pedestrian bridge to the even tinier Île St-Louis. The art galleries and gift shops along the narrow main street of this exclusive residential enclave have been carefully groomed to appeal to tourists, with prices to match. You'll have to cross the Seine to get to the nearest métro, but this is an excellent place to explore the city's older districts on foot. If you're unsure of what to do for lunch, pick up some baguettes and a bottle of wine and head over to the Seine for a picnic. Don't forget the picnic blanket!

The Marais & Les Halles

1er, 3e & 4e Arrondissements. The Marais is one of those rare Parisian neighborhoods that combines excellent museums, boutiques, dining, and nightlife in a postcard-perfect historic setting. It's also home to the city's largest Jewish and gay communities. This is the place to be, whether it is night or day. The mixed cultures provide a great diversity of food (great falafel to go), nightclubs, art galleries, and cafes to sit in for hours. There is a young feeling in the streets but it mixes well with the history of the neighborhood. Taking to the wider streets leads you to the most popular contemporary, Centre Pompidou, which is in the western direction. And, if you want to shop (because sometimes you can't resist), this is the best area to dig through a pile of vintage clothing.

St-Germain-des-Prés

6e Arrondissement. This cafe-filled neighborhood gets its name from the ancient church of St-Germain-des-Prés, the oldest house of worship in Paris. The narrow streets and historic facades are reminiscent of the Marais, but with more antiques shops and upscale galleries. Luxury boutique hotels in the area offer cozy historic character without sacrificing space or modern comforts (at a price, of course), while budget sleeps can be found around métro Odéon for those who can forgo elevators, air-conditioning, and closet space. There is always plenty to do, whether it's window shopping or book browsing in one of the small libraries. People-watching is best from the café terraces along the noisy boulevard St-Germain, or from the peaceful reclining chairs in the magnificently landscaped Jardin du Luxembourg to the south.

The Louvre, Tuileries & Faubourg St-Honoré

1er, 2e & 8e Arrondissements. Here the grand Louvre museum, formal Jardin des Tuileries, and vast place de la Concorde stretch out majestically between the Seine and the busy rue de Rivoli thoroughfare. Running parallel to the north is the narrow and winding rue St-Honoré, a trendy shopping street that skirts the arcaded boutiques and gardens of the Palais-Royal and the exclusive jewelers of the place Vendôme. Farther west the street turns into the rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, home to many Parisian couture houses. Easy access to several métro lines makes it a convenient base for exploring other neighborhoods.

Invalides & the Tour Eiffel

7e Arrondissement. Home of government ministries, foreign embassies, the Tour Eiffel, and Napoléon's final resting spot at Les Invalides, the 7e arrondissement was designed on a monumental scale that's meant to impress. Though this area quiets down in the after hours, it is a wonderful place for a stroll through empty streets and groomed lawns. Besides the ministry buildings, the neighborhood is residential and calm. The shopping areas around rue Cler, rue du Bac, and the posh Bon Marché department store are good for a day of spending. Fans of late 19th-century art can find bliss at the Musée d'Orsay or the more intimate Musée Rodin.

The Latin Quartier

5e Arrondissement. The Latin Quarter has been the center of French academia since the 13th century, so it's no surprise that the shopping, eating, and entertainment options appeal to a student population. The Fontaine de Saint-Michel is a primary meeting place for first dates and accoustic guitar jams. Stroll along a pleasant border between the calm Seine and the restaurant filled streets. Take a walk towards the Sorbonne and you are sure to find some good shopping. Lounge in the Jardin de Luxembourg, where you can take a breather and sit amongst the statues and Parisians taking a lunch-time snooze.

Visitors can find surviving pockets of medieval Paris and Gallo-Roman ruins, both of which are highlighted at the Musée-National du Moyen-Age, or explore the culinary delights of the open markets at place Maubert or rue Mouffetard. Other attractions include the Panthéon shrine of French luminaries at the top of the hill, and the Institut du Monde Arabe and Jardin des Plantes.

The Opéra & the Grands Boulevards

2e, 8e & 9e Arrondissements. The Grands Boulevards are technically a series of broad avenues stretching in an arc across the Right Bank from the place de la Madeleine to the place de la Bastille, although the term usually refers to the area between the Bonnes Nouvelle métro and the Opéra Garnier. This neighborhood has some of the most frenetic shopping areas in town, including the mammoth historic department stores Galeries Lafayette and Au Printemps. Night owls allergic to the showy glitz of the Champs-Élysées congregate at the laid-back nightclubs, 24-hour brasseries, and cinemas around the Grands Boulevards métro.

Champs-Élysées & Trocadero

8e & 16e Arrondissements. The world-famous avenue des Champs-Élysées is beautifully framed by the majestic Arc de Triomphe at one end, and palatial Belle Epoque museums at the other. This outstretched boulevard is cluttered with "all you need" shops, hotels, cinemas, fast-food joints, and of course cafes. Though this area is more commercial than the rest of Paris, classic landmarks greet you at the end of your flourescent lit walk. The area between Alma-Marceau and Trocadero is thick with impressive architectural monuments and renowned museums such as the Musee Guimet of Asian arts and the avant-garde Palais de Tokyo. Despite this splendour, it's short on liveability with a closed-up atmosphere on the evenings and weekends and a lack of decent open-air markets or supermarkets for the essentials.

Montparnasse

14e Arrondissement. With so many budget hotels and good-value bistros, this area is a great option for those who plan on spending a lot of time on the Left Bank. It's a bit busy around the gigantic Tour Montparnasse and boulevard Montparnasse with the hustle and bustle of the weekday business traffic. Never fear, it's easy to escape from the noise because the famous brasseries frequented by Picasso and Hemingway are nearby. The contemporary art scene is alive and well at the glass-cubed Fondation Cartier, and photography fans shouldn't miss the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson. Melancholic inclinations can be indulged in the Catacombs or at the peaceful Montparnasse Cemetery, where Serge Gainsbourg, Jean-Paul Sartre, and Simone de Beauvoir eternally rest.