VINGT Paris

Photo from Fete de Ganesh in the quartier, every September

"Little Jaffna", around metros Gare du Nord, La Chapelle, and Louis Blanc, looks a bit down at heel but you'll find shops selling handmade saris (Saree Palace, 182 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis), cheap and cheerful supermarkets, jewellery shops, Indian music stores, travel agencies (with good deals on flights to India at c 500 euros), and restaurants offering authentic Indian and Sri-Lankan cuisine. France's first Hindu Temple, Sri Manicka Vinayakar, 72 Rue Philippe de Girard, it is open daily to visitors and welcomes all guests. It also organises the magnificent Ganesh Festival in September each year.

Other streets to check out are rue Cail and rue Perdonnet.
Not many of the people I advised to invest in Max Dormy and Chateau Rouge took me up on it. Okay, it's was for the fearless, long-term investor but speculators are supposed to have balls. If you want to be a pioneer you have to be brave. I noticed a while back the Mairie was building lots of artist live/work units on rue Philippe de Girard (following regeneration at rue des Gardes in La Goutte d'Or) then lo and behold, swank hotels follow suit. Maybe now that Kube has opened they'll believe me. The area still looks a bit down at heel but it's a great place to go if you're after vegetarian food. Home to a community of Sri-Lankan Tamils who fled their country in the 1980's, escaping a violent civil conflict with the island's ethnic majority, the Cinghalese. The French Prefecture opened up a period of nearly systematic asylum in the 80's but it decreased later due to European measures designed against an influx in immigration.

On the rue Francs Bourgeois

It was long haul through until closing the deal but it was worth it to see my client bring his whole family, all the way from Texas, to see his brand new Paris apartment for the first time. Before renovation it looked quite different although was a good layout and had a wonderful with the view across the street, the Hotel Particulier, Hôtel d'Alméras. But like most Parisian apartments (contrary to popular imagination) it was in need of a serious decoration overhaul. It's a two bedroom apartment on the rue Francs Bourgeois in the heart of the Marais and has been bought specifically to be rented through a luxury short stay apartment specialist.

Monte Laster is the talented artist and designer - it's a true palace now.

The Marais is packed with these ancient Hotel Particulier which were once the town houses of wealthy families. Laws passed in 1962 by André Malraux (de Gaulle's Minister of Culture) protected the historical centers of French cities and thankfully the Marais and it's magnificent buildings.

In the olden days, the Marais was a swamp (the word means "swamp" in French) and was later used for growing produce to feed Paris. Rue Francs-Bourgeois, was one of the first streets to be laid as the wealthy moved in and a century later Henri IV constructed Place des Vosges (about 5 minutes away at the end of the street). In later centuries the area became terribly run-down and was almost razed to the ground to widen the rue de Rivoli until a campaign stopped the destruction and Malraux stepped in. The other thank you is to the gay community. Quoting from an interesting report:

"By 1980 a report for the Paris City Council presented the Marais as an up and coming middle-class district. But really, the Marais was rising in popularity with the homosexuals because of commercial opportunities. In the 1980s, the area was redeveloped as many commercial buildings could be bought for bargain prices. Gay people were looking for pubs opened to public gaze, where they were visible. This would make homosexual life more accepted in the city and in everyday life."

I must admit to be facinated by the effect that artists and homosexuals have on property prices!

Another interesting building on rue Francs Bourgeois is the Credit Municipal at no. 55 - or as the French call it “Ma Tante” . This is a special bank operating like a pawnshop – lending money in exchange for art, jewelery or furnishings. When you've paid back the loan you get the belongings back. The nickname came about when bashful barterers said they'd been left money by their family! Inside you can still see the huge wooden mattress sterilizing machine used to clean bed linen pawned by 19th century Parisians.

If you'd like to stop for lunch, there is a superb restaurant at no.53 called Le Dome du Marais which is handy in this inclement weather as there is a glass covered dining area which has a beautiful light at lunch time.

Interview with Susie in Prissy Magazine

Congratulations Priscilla Lalisse. After months of hard work she has launched "Prissy Mag" with unique insights into everyday Parisian life. Priscilla interviewed me and it appeared in the first issue of Prissy Mag, an honour.

I noticed an emphasis on sex and relationships issues, great interviews and gossipy articles - plenty to tickle your fancy. A sample from the Agony Aunt, "Ask Madame":

"Dear Madame, I've been working for a large French company at La Defense for two months and I'm almost done with my trial period. Trouble is, I'm wildly attracted to my boss, who's French. Last week during a meeting when he casually touched my elbow, I could barely contain myself. Are office romances "allowed" in France, or should I stop fantasizing about my boss?
Signed,
Tempted at La Defense

I have no idea what I'd advise in this situation since I've never worked in a French office (thank God). Better read on........

Property pitfalls of renting in Paris

Flat hunting in Paris is a bureaucratic nightmare, and that's only if the landlord likes the look of you! Check out this article from Greatreporter. The author Sally Rubery is right, you need determination, money and a sense of humour!

The need to provide a Guarantor is a particular problem for non-French renters because it's not that easy to find someone who will co-sign with you and agree to pay if you default on the rent if you're brand new in town. French landlords won't accept a non-French based Guarantor because they can't hunt them down if you turn out to default on your rent.

You could just come direct to Bonapart Paris and we'll ease the pain because most people agree after they finally find their home alone, it was a nightmare!

I feel so sorry when people call me and tell me they've been here for a week staying in a hotel and have had no luck finding a place, they are exhausted, disheartened and usually quite uncomplementary about how owners and agencies do business. It can get you down being treated with a complete lack of respect day after day!

It's even horrible for the French, here's a site called JeudiNoir which is a pressure group made up of young people who can't find proper accomodation in Paris. They are protesting on the humiliating process particularly through the Particulier Particulier (PAP), a property magazine carrying listings for apartments for rent and for sale direct with the owner (it comes out on a Thursday, Jeudi, hence the "Black Thursday/Jeudi Noir" name).

Yesterday a family from Mexico city told me that they'd gone to visit an apartment for their son who is coming here to study. On a visit they were let in by the Gardienne who was rather vague about the apartment, it was either this one or another on the 3rd floor. They confirmed the apartment, saw that it was the one they'd seen photos of online and went to the agency to sign the papers only to find out just before signing that they were about to put down a deposit on the grotty, semi-furnished box with a view onto the wall of the neighbouring building. Thankfuly they spotted the trick as the son is already speaking excellent French - they were the lucky ones.

Place des Vosges, Marais

Here is a rare opportunity to live like a Noble in the heart of Paris. It's not everyday that an apartment ON the historic Place des Vosges comes up for rental - with modern conveniences! This is a one bedroom apartment with 2/3 rooms - spacious living room with cathedral ceiling. Windows + skylights on both sides of the apartment flood the space with light. There is a small bedroom at one end of the apartment and a sleeping cove for your guests at the other side. Available now for long term rental (which means a minimum stay of 6 months).
See photos

Montmartre hideaway - Virginie Salot photography

One of my favourite aparments has just had the professional photography treatment by young French photographer Virgine Salot, specialising in interiors. To see further photos, check out the slideshow. This is a stunning one bedroom (about 460 ft2) apartment situated in a calm Montmartre street on one of the famous staircases. Next door to Sacre Coeur and walking distance to the Porte de Clignancourt flea market, the scenic Montmartre Cemetery and the only working vineyard in Paris. Also comes with 80m² terrasse and 360 degree view of Paris for summer parties!

Philippe Starck hotel in 20eme

Looks like the 20eme will continue to zoom up in price, look what's coming:

"We have selected a site in the 20th arrondissement of Paris (but where exactly, psst), to become the home of our flagship hotel. The first Mama Shelter in Paris will have 172 rooms and is scheduled to open in 2008.Mama Shelter is the result of the association between Town&Shelter and Urbantech to create the first Philippe Starck hotel in France. Mama Shelter's goal is to offer a modern approach to the hotel industry, by designing affordable and sexy three star city hotels for business and leisure travelers."

Find a flat in Paris, everyone's nightmare

International Living's Thomas Springett has just published this handy article, "How to find a rental in Paris" which I'd like to share with you.

"Finding an apartment within your means in Paris can be a nightmare. The shortage of affordable rentals in the city is due to both lack of space and cautious landlords who fear the long legal procedures involved in removing tenants who default on their rent (you cannot evict tenants during winter, for instance). And, if you are looking for a small place to live in September and October, you’ll also be competing with thousands of students.

The two most common approaches to apartment hunting in Paris are to use a weekly paper called De Particulier à particulier in which landlords advertise directly to prospective tenants, or to use a realtor or agent immobilier. (OR A RELOCATION EXPERT THOMAS)

If you are expecting to stay for any length of time, don’t mind paying a fee, and if you don’t want to waste time, this is probably the best solution. The agency should be able to offer a range of properties to suit your budget, will act as your interface with the owner for payment and any repairs needed, and can arrange several visits before you sign the lease.

A fee of one month’s rent
This service is not free, however. Be prepared to fork out approximately three months’ rent at the outset: agency fees are roughly equivalent to one month’s rent or (or less through Bonapart's relocation service.........); a returnable deposit (or caution) of one month’s rent is required for breakages; and the first month’s rent is payable in advance. Unfurnished 200-square-foot studios start from 500 euro or $670+ a month. The owner will receive your rent each month via the agency, minus a handling fee. If work needs doing on your apartment, you may face delays, as the agencies tend to work office hours and may not be able to contact the owner easily (WHY SHOULD THEY EVEN CARE, IS MORE LIKE IT HERE HONEY)

Act quickly
De Particulier à particulier, on the other hand, cuts out the middle man, allowing owners and tenants to save money. Dealing directly with the owner may also give you more flexibility to negotiate your lease and payments. And, once you’ve found what you’re looking for, it’s in the owner’s interests to get you installed as soon as possible. (THIS IS NOT FOR THE FAINT HEARTED THESE PEOPLE ARE THE MEANEST MOST PENNYPINCHING PEOPLE IN PARIS, AND THEY DON'T ALL THINK THAT YOUR HEAVILY ACCENTED FRENCH IS "CHARMANT(E)" - MY ADVICE? IF YOU ENCOUNTER RUDENESS SPITE OR ATTITUDE, DON'T GET UPSET AND OR YOU CAN USE LOGIC, $$$$$ OR OTHER WILES TO GET ROUND IT, JUST PHONE THE NEXT ONE AND PRAY. BE PREPARED TO BE HUMILIATED TO WITHIN AN INCH OF YOUR LIFE. DOES LITTLE FOR INTERNATIONAL GOODWILL.

The drawback is that this publication is so successful that you need to act quickly: apartments advertised in this way are often rented on the same day, and generally offer a single viewing opportunity—along with everyone else who is interested. As the owners are not easily made answerable to dishonest claims, you may also find yourself wasting time visiting apartments that don’t correspond to the advertisements. Added to this hurdle is your profile: It may not be what the landlord is looking for, and opportunities for discrimination are rife. (YOU SAID IT "C'est deja loué Mr Ngobu"......cue telephone slamming down)

That said, if you have a limited budget, don’t mind the occasional wild goose chase, and are not hunting at the beginning of the school year, De Particulier à particulier is a good way to save money. If time is your only obstacle, an agent immobilier is the most efficient way to move into your new home quickly. AND ON THE VERGE OF A NERVOUS BREAKDOWN.

As you'll be paying an agency and still have to go through a good part of this it's probably best to go via a relocation firm who will at least buffer you from the worst although some charge a fee and take you to a Realtor to see products they list who will happily charge you again (about one month's rent).

We only charge you once, and we don't work in conjunction with realtors, our portfolio of apartments is direct to the owner - and we've hand-picked our bunch to be honest, fair and not sparing on the decoration front.
See apartments:

Are entrepreneurs born or made?

There are 2 schools of thought: Any woman can start and run a successful profitable business if she really wants provided she put in the effort VERSUS she has to have a certain entrepreneurial, operational and managerial DNA otherwise she is wasting her time. Therefore should women be encouraged to start businesses, or should women demonstrate specific skills, abilities and knowledge before being encouraged to start a business? Do the quick quiz at Times Online to see if you have what it takes!

NB: I haven't calculated my score, there are no questions slanted towards starting a business three weeks after moving to a foreign country, with little capital and no real business plan. I'm in the anyone can do it camp. Some of the skills required would make the most battle hardened corporate queens crumble and no business plan can take account of the inevitable evolutionary cycles that occur so sticking to hard and fast rules can mean all that booklearnin' can just get in the way.