Gourmandise

Living in Paris makes it impossible for us to ignore the huge part food plays in the culture of France.  I realised I'd really turned the corner (for better or worse) when one evening I found myself jumping on a bus to buy a baguette from my favourite Boulangerie - but later I realised it was 45 minutes out of my way! Changed days since London - for example, it would be impossible to imagine any French person spending their "lunch-hour" hunched over a PC, a trying to balance a Pret a Manger sandwich, a mouse and a telephone (like I used to in the bad old days).  It took time to adjust to the ryhthm of life here but I've definitely adapted now.  On a really busy day it can be frustrating if the only time I have to make phonecalls is between 12.30 and 2pm (nobody is ever available - sacred-time) but that simply forces me to go and take a break myself and sometimes I need to be reminded to do that.  When I first came here I often requested to schedule meetings at 12.30 or 1pm - people looked at me as if I were nuts. I know better now.

But today, a treat. A client bought me a present of a day with Paule Caillat founder of Promenades Gourmandes.  Paule's cooking school is legendary and she is the most wonderful feisty instructor (classes are small and intimate with only 3 or 4 attendees).  She has a tight timescale to keep to and we start on the dot of 9am at Marché Richard-Lenoir where she steers us round to the best stalls and explains the secrets of finding the best produce. "Check the cartons", she whispers.  "See those over their are plastic and it means this produce comes straight from the farm, those wooden ones are imported" (we are trying to stick to buying the best quality fruit and vegetable which are currently in season).  Next stop a stomach churning in-depth look at some offal, then a poissonerie where we detour from the menu shopping because Paule can't resist the fresh scallops.  After stopping by the boulangerie and the cave (Julien, 50 rue Charlot - for unpretentious advice from the young owners) we are back in the kitchen and set to work.  About three hours later, we are full, satisfied and extremely ready for a nap.  We've just eaten a delicious four-meal which we all helped to prepare and washed down with a thoroughly scrumptious wine. In the meantime we've gained a million and one secret tips, new ideas and insider knowledge of French food, all delivered in Paule's inimitable manner.  We leave with recipes and notes on the best products, where to find them and for me,  good intentions to take my turn a little more often in the kitchen.